The Internet school of dressing, pt. 1

Since the time I have made my first steps into the world of menswear, I have been learning new things. Some lessons proved valuable, like how to spot quality in a sea of mediocrity, how to acquire said quality for less than it is usually asked of me, how to break away from the crowd and let my personality shine through what I wear. But, more often than not, I have witnessed the pretense and lack of individual thought shown by most denizens of the corner of the Web dedicated to classical dressing.

Sprezzatura. The word so often repeated on men's clothing forums and blogs, a term used to describe the 'insolence' of Italians, their purposeful recklessness when it comes to dress. Undone buttons on sleeves, unbuckled monk strap shoes, jacket pocket flaps partially tucked in, rolled-up pant bottoms, whatever. Things that should be the mark of unkempt proles who just don't know any better... considered by the well-off and bored Internet Gents, or iGents to be the 'pinnacle of dressing' and 'having fun with one's clothes'. An artificial way of telling the environment that they do not spend much time thinking about clothes and putting them on, while in fact it is precisely that. Showing that they do not care too much about their clothes, when, truth to be told, it is quite possibly the one thing they care about the most.

Projecting the image of an exprensively-dressed slob does not equal style. It equals being an exprensively-dressed slob.

The adventurous suits, vol.1

When stepping into the world of bespoke, one must remember about self-discipline. It is very easy to go overboard with the first order, especially when starting to build a new wardrobe from scratch. I know that, for I almost have. As I delved deeper and deeper into the part of the Web dedicated to menswear, I stumbled upon hundreds and hundreds of inspiring pieces. Naturally, I saved each and every one of them to my drive, amassing a huge heap of images in the process.

Half a year later, the original heap is almost gone, its pieces replaced by other, more fresh images that caught my fancy. I know that over a half of them is going to be deleted in the next couple of months, that only a few select gems will survive. Such cullings saved me from many impulse purchases and orders, expenses that I would possibly regret very soon after receiving the finished garments. I have also learned how the designs labeled as 'timeless classics' turn out to be - just as the name implies - truly timeless.

And that 'classic' does not neccessarily have to imply 'understated' and even downright 'boring'.

Picture there three images in your mind, combined - with some luck, you might end up imagining what will become my fourth suit. As four, in my vocabulary, means 'adventure'.

The brands, the lifestyles

Few brands nowadays have what may be called "substance". Apart from the clothes you see on displays and inside every store, there is little atmosphere to be felt as you enter and later browse through the merchandise. Every time I walk by an Armani or Burberry boutique in the central district and peer inside through the windows, I cannot see anything apart from clothing racks and salespeople fidgeting anxiously, awaiting potential customers which they could assault with their trained smiles and overly polite gestures learned by heart.

It is no secret that after establishing a firm presence on the market, most designers and fashion houses stopped caring about appearances and money became the dominant factor. Most of their stores now look exactly like H&M, only with higher prices and more logos scattered throughout. There was never a time when I wanted to walk into any of them, for I knew that they offered me nothing more than clothes. There is no greater idea attached to the act of buying, no lifestyle being promoted - apart from consumption.

This is where a brand like Alfred Dunhill differs from the crowd.

In my opinion, no other fashion house (or should I say, style house) has such a strong connection with its roots and displays them so proudly. Despite the inevitable changes over the years, a gentle shift from the classic to the modern, Dunhill still maintains a certain image, the driving force behind all their collections. The fact that they are not just clothes-oriented may have a lot to do with it. Sure, mannequins peek at you from behind their windows just like in any other store, and yet it completely different.

This is the place for both youthful and seasoned gentlemen. The place where they not only buy their suits, but also their umbrellas, their leather goods inspired by hundred-year-old classic designs, their jewelery and pens, finished mostly in luxurious but not flashy sterling silver, decorations that nod to a lifestyle that fewer and fewer men can enjoy these days. Cufflinks in the shape of steering wheels or engine coils from ancient cars, of airshps, of beast heads that adorn the walls of country houses. Walking canes, briefcases made by true artisans in the brand's own factory, watches created in collaboration with none other than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Chess and card sets, even. And did I mention that the flagship stores also house a barber, a spa, lounge bars and whatnot? The London one even has a museum dedicated to preserving and showcasing the brand's history and proud heritage. Dunhill boutiques simply exude - for lack of a better word - pure class.

If there is one brand that makes me feel I am buying more than their items, it's definitely Dunhill. In fact, I find myself drawn even more to their aesthetic everyday, if that is even possible at this point. No label managed to appeal to my taste so much as them - not the fabulously exuberant Tom Ford, not the all-American Ralph Lauren, not even the combined efforts of all the Italian menswear houses can achieve that effect. I even started to consider a vintage Rolls Royce to be a fitting gift for myself to celebrate my 50th or 60th birthday, if I ever live that long. With a pair of Dunhill driving gloves as the cherry on top, of course.

For now, I am happy with purchasing their magnificent accessories from time to time. That, and the fact that I am a smoker and can enjoy Dunhill cigarettes, even if they are produced by a different company. I am sure they would be even better when ignited with a Rollagas lighter, though.

Louis Vuitton phenomenon

Just a couple of days ago, I saw a Louis Vuitton advert, made by Takashi Murakami and after a few first seconds of this i was like: '(*゜▽゜*)~☆ mwahahah. kawaii. but. nani. sore?'. This is totally amazing, I think that more brands should enquire the society they want to persuade and do it in many ways, using imagination, colaborating with others.
What I mean is: COME ON i am sick of all that SEXUALITY and LUXURY everywhere. In the TV, in the magazines, everything should be sexy, sensual etc etc. But it's TOO OLD. This is about same old shit all the time in USA and Europe. All these 'sexy tricks' are just like showing a naked body of an old granny everywhere to everyone. In my opinion. Sometimes it's disgusting, but mostly - it's boring.
I could write a long entry about it.

Very simple examples of what I meant:
Vuitton in America/Europe:


Vuitton in Asia:


And here you go, Vuitton + Murakami adv:

Because, you know, Vuitton is making BAGS and SUITCASES too, so, you know,TRAVELLING is, like, HUGE FUN and ADVENTURE in Asia but in US/EU it's still about blingblings, tags and sex.
Pathetic.

The dream watches of Catshmere land

We have spent the last several weeks quite idly, and I apologize for the lack of updates - I will try to make up for that in the coming days, I promise. Meanwhile, Sunday passed slowly and we had a very fine evening in the city, with cake, chocolate, coffee and whatnot. We have also taken a stroll through the mall near our home and, while passing a jewelry store, noticed a certain watch that was on display. It was the A. Lange and Sohne Saxonia, in pink gold and with a dark brown crocodile strap.

For a long time - in fact, ever since I have first seen it in person - my dream watch was the Jaeger - LeCoultre Master Grande Ultra Slim, in black and silver. I have favoured it for its low-profile appearance, its minimalist silhouette and, most notably, for its remarkably small thickness, nearing only 2,5mm. It was a perfect watch for me, as it could be worn everywhere, with every suit or sportcoat I could imagine. Dressy enough even for a very official evening, but razor-sharp and robust enough for any other occasion. Plus, it could fit under any double cuff, of which I am a great supporter. But upon seeing the Saxonia I had to forget all these advantages which made the JLC my grail watch.

It is amazing how a single influential moment can shatter all the planning and thoughts that came beforehand. For me, yesterday brought such a turn. And despite the fact that the price is almost quadruple than that of the Grande Master and that it isn't as versatile, I cannot stop imagining the above watch on my wrist. Especially since the Saxonia also comes with white gold hardware and a black face - which unmistakably reminds me of the JLC.

To make matters worse, there is another watch that I absolutely adore - the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique, in its most basic model.

Measuring only 38mm in diameter and 2.1mm in thickness, this masterpiece carries a movement manufactured by Piaget for RL and encased in 18 karat white gold. With its intricate patterns and a small, understated frame, the Slim Classique embodies all the qualities a finely dressed man should possess - it appears simple yet imposing from afar, which draws the witness closer, only to reveal the majestic beauty that can only be captured in the miniscule details. The same watch is available with diamonds set around the entire face, yet I find it too over the top. To add anything to this piece would be to overpower it.

Only time will tell if an opportunity arrives one day for me to purchase any of these watches, or if I ever will appear anywhere with the last one. But if I do, I will remember these musings - and last Sunday.

Seasons they change

This June came to me with the advent of my first ever bespoke garment. Created over the course of two months, the three-piece charcoal pinstripe suit was both an achievement and a test, a chance to put into practice all the knowledge I have accumulated since last winter. The research regarding cloth weights and fabrics definitely paid off, as I came to the tailor's workshop with a fixed idea on what I exactly wanted and expected from the future suit. It was June, however, and no matter how delighted I was with the finished work, it could not change the fact that temperatures were growing rapidly, and that a 280 gram, fully lined three-piece was not exactly the best thing to wear in the summer.

Thus began my second lesson - during which I learned that for a wardrobe to be functional, it needs to consist of suits and jackets that can be worn in specific seasons. With winter in mind, I picked several flannels of various weights in neutral, dark colours which will be easy to accesorize with an array of woolen and cashmere ties. I still have some time to prepare for summer, luckily...

And what of the in-between seasons, when it is still too hot to break out the flannels, and too cold for anything lighter? This is when the three-piece shines. And when its four brothers of similar weight will shine - when I have the time to order them and have them made up, that is. Oh, the possibilities.

Handmade clothing - made with passion, pt.1

People of the XXIst century grow accustomed to all things machine-made. Craftsmen of all kinds are steadily replaced by automata which do the same job more quickly, more efficiently, some might say - more dilligently. And while this may be true with regard to sweatshops, I think no machine can surpass a person with many years of experience in his or her trade. However, there is a much more important, fundamental difference. Things made by machines which have no souls lack souls themselves.

This is especially reflected in clothing, where the subtle irregularity of the handiwork is a quality, something sought for, rather than a mark of a shoddy product. Where all threads have a story to tell and combined form a garment which, even when made in a very simple pattern, can be considered intricate - for the handiwork of an artisan is seen in every detail. Something speaks from within such clothes. Something which I like to call a soul, even though I do not believe in such things. I cannot deny, however, that I am attracted to it.

Handmade ties from Drakes of London are therefore one of my many passions.

Why I still have some faith in the runways, pt I.

Last week's lecture on clothing creation sparked a discussion on various styles which soon took a rather bizarre turn. The reason? Men's clothing. Female fans of Chanel share their views on what can be considered 'traditional menswear'. Hilarity and inanity ensued, forcing the lecturer to cut the chatter and ask a simple, precise question:

"What single well-known brand do you consider to be the most traditional, then?"
"Ralph Lauren", I replied, breaking the silence.
 A voice from behind me said: "Nah, it's mostly sportswear." I lost my composure.

Behold, examples of sportswear abound:

Either by 'sportswear' the girl meant classy englishmen riding around the park on old-fashioned bicycles with the huge front wheels or simply taking a stroll with a walking stick ('Why hello there, chaps! Nice weather we are having today!'), or something is wrong. Very, very wrong.

When it comes to classic styling, I doubt if any other high fashion brand can compete with Ralph Lauren Purple Label or Polo RL. Sure, the lapels are a little on the slim side, the jackets themselves a little short. However I am sure you will agree that these examples are worlds apart from designs proposed by D&G, Prada, Gucci and similar big names of the fashion world, for basically the same price - which is, as always, quite insane if you go full retail. Although that is a different matter altogether.

Photoes taken from the Ralph Lauren FW2010 menswear coverage at style.com. Feel free to click and be amazed.

PAUL AND JOE cat lipstick

i'm not wearing make up at all on my daily basis. i think i just don't need it.

but when i see special collections from Paul & Joe, i cannot resist and i must have it.

(do you remember the cute Alice in Wonderland set last year?)

Now cat lipsticks are very hard to find available anywhere,

but couple days ago i found it, and instantly bought one for $25.

If you are interested, you can find it in The Primping Parleur

amazing website (from where i ordered it)

or in their cute beauty salon in Brea, California.